Fencing advice & FAQs

A new timber close-board fence in the Haverhill area typically costs £80-£150 per metre supplied and fitted, depending on height, ground conditions and materials chosen. Concrete posts and gravel boards push the price up but significantly extend the life of the fence. The main cost drivers are panel or board style, post material, total length, whether old fencing needs removing, and how level or soft the ground is. Getting a few itemised quotes makes it easy to compare like for like.

A well-built close-board timber fence with concrete posts and gravel boards can last 20-25 years or more with basic maintenance. Untreated softwood posts set directly into soil are the weak point and may rot within 8-12 years. Composite panels carry manufacturer guarantees of 20-25 years and need very little upkeep. Metal (steel or aluminium) fencing lasts longest of all, often 40 years or more, but costs considerably more upfront.

Concrete posts outlast timber posts by a significant margin because they do not rot at ground level, which is where timber almost always fails first. A timber post set in concrete will still absorb moisture where it meets the soil line and begin to decay, sometimes within a decade. Concrete posts cost more initially but are the better long-term investment for a permanent boundary fence. If budget is tight, treated softwood posts in a concrete collar are preferable to untreated posts simply driven into soil.

Timber panels are the most affordable and widely available option, but they require regular treatment and are vulnerable to rot and storm damage. Composite panels (made from a mix of wood fibre and recycled plastic) look similar to timber, need almost no maintenance and will not rot, though they cost roughly twice as much to buy. Metal fencing - steel or aluminium railings and palisades - suits boundaries where security or appearance matters more than privacy. The right choice depends on your budget, how much maintenance you want to do, and whether you need a solid screen or an open boundary.

In most cases, a garden fence up to 2 metres high does not require planning permission in England. If the fence borders a highway, footpath or public right of way, the limit drops to 1 metre without permission. If your property is in a conservation area, Article 4 direction area, or subject to a restrictive covenant, different rules apply and you should check with your local planning authority before building. Permitted development rules apply to the fence itself, not the gate - a gate in the fence line follows the same height rules.

There is no universal rule in England that says the left or right side of a fence belongs to you - ownership depends on your title deeds or Land Registry documents. Look for a 'T' mark on the boundary line on your deeds: the stem of the T points to the land that owns (and is usually responsible for) that boundary. If deeds are unclear, a property solicitor can advise, and HM Land Registry can provide title plan copies for a small fee. Do not assume because posts face a certain way that the fence is yours - that is a common misconception with no legal basis.

If fewer than a third of the posts or panels are damaged and the rest of the fence is structurally sound, targeted repairs usually make sense. Where posts are rotting at ground level along most of a run, or panels are splitting and bowing across the board, a full replacement is usually more cost-effective than a series of patch repairs that will still leave an ageing fence. A good fencing contractor will be honest about which sections can be saved and which cannot - ask them to walk the boundary with you and explain their reasoning. Mixing new panels with old ones can also look mismatched if the timber weathering is very different.

After storm damage, photograph everything before moving any fallen panels or posts, as your insurer will want evidence. Most home insurance policies cover storm damage to fences, but check your policy schedule as some exclude boundary structures entirely or apply a separate excess. Contact your insurer to log a claim before arranging repairs, otherwise you risk not being reimbursed. Once you have clearance to proceed, a temporary fix to secure the boundary is sensible while a full repair or replacement is arranged.

A gravel board is a horizontal board or concrete strip fitted at the base of a fence between the posts, sitting just above soil level to take the brunt of ground moisture, soil contact and lawn mower scrapes. Without one, the bottom of timber panels or close-board feather-edge boards sits in damp soil and begins to rot within a few years. Concrete gravel boards are the most durable option and can be replaced independently if they crack. Timber gravel boards are cheaper but should be treated hardwood or pressure-treated softwood to slow decay.

Standard fence post spacing is 1.83 metres (6 feet) centre to centre, which matches the width of most stock panels and distributes load evenly. Posts rot at ground level because that is where moisture from the soil meets air - the repeated wetting and drying cycle breaks down timber faster than constant submersion or full exposure above ground. Setting posts in a concrete collar helps slightly, but a concrete collar that traps water against the post can still accelerate rot if poorly shaped. Concrete posts eliminate this problem entirely by removing timber from the ground zone.

A garden gate needs posts at least 100mm x 100mm to carry the extra load and leverage - undersized posts are the most common reason gates sag and stop closing properly. Use heavy-duty galvanised or stainless steel hinges; cheaper zinc-plated fittings rust within a couple of seasons in the wet. A gate latch should be positioned so it cannot be reached over the top of the gate by a child if the gate secures a pool or play area. For a side-access gate where security matters, a lockable bolt or padlock staple is worth fitting from the outset rather than adding one later.

Many fencing contractors work with the same pressure-treated timber and post-setting skills needed for decking, pergolas and trellis, so having one tradesperson handle all three can be efficient. Decking up to 30cm above ground level in most garden positions does not require planning permission, but check if your property is in a conservation area. A pergola attached to the house counts as an extension for planning purposes if it is large, so confirm permitted development limits before building. Trellis fitted to an existing fence that takes the combined height over 2 metres can also require permission, so factor that in when planning.

Pressure-treated timber arrives with preservative already driven deep into the wood, which is far more effective than brush-on treatment applied to the surface after cutting. Even so, cut ends exposed during installation should be sealed with an end-grain preservative immediately. A brush-on fence paint, stain or preservative applied every 2-3 years to exposed surfaces will slow weathering and is the single most effective maintenance task a homeowner can do. Clear any soil, leaves or debris that builds up against the base of the fence, as trapped moisture accelerates rot faster than weather alone.

Ask for an itemised written quote that specifies post material, post depth, panel type and whether old fencing removal is included - a vague quote makes it impossible to compare prices fairly. Check whether the contractor is happy for you to see a recent job in person, not just photos, as real-world finish and ground conditions tell you more than a picture. Look for reviews on Google or Checkatrade that mention specific jobs rather than generic praise. Haverhill Fencers are happy to provide a free local quote and talk through your options before any work is agreed.