If you've booked a decking installation for your Cherry Hinton garden and are waiting for the work to begin, or if your existing deck is causing a problem right now, this page explains what you can usefully do beforehand and what is best left alone.
Haverhill Fencers design and install timber decking for gardens in Cherry Hinton and the surrounding area. Our installations use pressure-treated softwood framing, correctly spaced joists and galvanised or stainless fixings to build decks that sit level and firm for years. Ground-level platforms, raised structures on sloping gardens and split-level designs are all within scope.
We also understand that waiting for work to be scheduled is frustrating, and that when a deck is unsafe or causing an issue, the temptation is to sort it yourself. This page is designed to help you use the waiting time well and to be honest about where DIY action helps and where it can make things worse or more expensive.
The time between booking and installation can be used productively without touching the deck or its structure. These steps genuinely speed up the job and help us arrive prepared.
If the reason you're waiting for us is that an existing deck is damaged or feels unsafe, the most important thing is not to use it as normal while you wait. A deck that flexes underfoot, where posts move when pushed, or where boards have given way, is a structure whose frame may be further gone than the surface suggests. The risk is not just discomfort - it is a fall, particularly if the deck is raised.
The following actions are commonly attempted by homeowners in good faith but can cause real problems.
A lifted or sprung board is an obvious hazard, and the instinct to screw it back down is understandable. The problem is that a board lifts for a reason. If the joist below it has moved, swollen with moisture or started to decay, screwing the board back down without addressing the cause just means it will lift again - or that the screw pulls through soft timber and you end up with a worse situation than before. If a board needs to come up, leave it up and either rope off the area or cover it safely until the installation team arrives. A clearly marked gap is safer than a board fixed to a rotten joist.
Cutting away obviously decayed timber from a joist or post and treating the area with preservative is a reasonable-sounding approach. In practice, decay spreads further into timber than the surface damage suggests, and cutting to apparently sound material does not always remove the cause. If the decay source - typically moisture trapped against the timber - is not removed, new material sistered alongside old will begin to break down too. Leave structural assessment and any cutting to the installation team, who can judge the full extent of the problem once they have the deck open.
Cleaning an old deck with a pressure washer before the team arrives seems helpful but can accelerate damage to timber that is already compromised. High-pressure water opens up the grain of softwood, drives moisture into existing cracks and checks, and can dislodge fixings that are already loose. If you want to clean the surface, a stiff brush and a bucket of water is the safer approach.
Do not dig around existing post bases or attempt to remove posts while waiting for the installation team, even if they appear rotten and loose. A raised deck that has lost a post is structurally unstable and should be kept clear of people until the work is done. If a post appears to be failing and the structure above it is raised, rope off the affected area. If the structure is a serious and immediate safety risk, contact us to discuss bringing the visit forward.
Understanding what happens on the day helps you prepare properly. For a new installation, the process typically starts with setting out the post or foundation positions and confirming levels. Posts are set in concrete or on proprietary post supports, the main bearer and joist frame is then constructed and levelled, and the surface boards are fixed last. Steps, balustrades and any finishing trim are fitted once the main deck surface is complete.
For a replacement, the old structure is taken apart first and the material removed from site. This can take a significant portion of the first day on a large deck. The new installation follows the same sequence as above.
Raised or split-level structures, or ones with steps and balustrades, generally take longer. Specific timescales depend on the size and complexity of the design and site conditions on the day.
At the end of the installation the deck surface should be level across its length and width, boards should have consistent gaps for drainage and expansion, fixings should be flush or countersunk and not standing proud, and the frame should feel completely firm underfoot with no movement or flex. Steps should be even in rise and tread, and any balustrade should resist firm lateral pressure without flex at the post bases.
Ask the installer to show you where the frame is supported at ground level and how water is managed away from the structure. These are the details that determine how long the deck lasts, and a good installer will be happy to walk you through them.
If you have a question about preparing for an installation or you need to talk through a concern about an existing deck, call Haverhill Fencers. We serve Cherry Hinton and the surrounding area and are happy to give straightforward, practical advice before you commit to any work.
Also available
New fence installation in Haverhill and the surrounding villages, from garden boundaries and close-board panels to security and rural post-and-rail.
See detailsDamaged fence panels, leaning posts or broken rails don't just look untidy - they leave your property unsecured.
See detailsNew gates installed for driveways, side entrances and garden boundaries across Haverhill.
See detailsCall and speak to the person who will do the work, or send the form and we will come and measure up.