Storm damage, rotten posts or broken panels near Great Shelford? Haverhill Fencers replaces what needs replacing and leaves the rest of your run untouched.
A fence repair is not always a fence replacement. When a post snaps at ground level or a run of panels blows through in a storm, the damage is often limited to two or three components. The rest of the fence can stay exactly where it is. Good repair work means replacing individual gravel boards, posts, arris rails or panels without disturbing the sections on either side.
Common types of repair include re-setting leaning posts in fresh concrete, replacing rotten or broken gravel boards at the base of a run, fitting new feather-edge boards where individual boards have split, and swapping out damaged close-board or lap panels. Posts are the most frequent single cause of fence failure - once the base of a timber post rots below ground, no amount of surface treatment will save it.
This is the part most homeowners skip, and it is the part that most often leads to disappointment. Choosing a contractor on price alone, or booking the first person who answers, is how you end up with a repaired fence that fails again in eighteen months. Here is what to ask before anyone picks up a spade.
A contractor should be able to tell you, before starting, which components need to come out and which can stay. If the answer is vague - "we'll see when we get there" - that is not a good sign. You want to know: how many posts, how many panels or boards, how many gravel boards, and whether any concrete spurs are needed. A specific list lets you compare quotes fairly and protects you if the scope changes on the day.
Ask whether arris rails will be replaced or just re-nailed. Re-nailing a cracked arris rail buys you a season at best. If a rail is split or has lost its fixing, it needs replacing. The same applies to gravel boards - a patched board at the base of a close-board fence still lets moisture wick up into the posts.
Not all timber is equal. Pressure-treated softwood lasts considerably longer than untreated or dip-treated timber, particularly for posts which sit in direct contact with soil. Ask whether posts are pressure-treated to UC4 (ground contact) specification. A post that is only surface-treated will begin to rot from the base within a few years regardless of what you apply on top.
Panel quality varies too. Thin, light lap panels are cheap for a reason - they offer less privacy, less wind resistance and a shorter lifespan than close-board or heavy-duty panel construction. Ask what gauge of timber is used for any replacement panels or boards, and whether they come from a recognised timber merchant rather than a builders' merchant's own-label range.
Posts can be set in concrete, in fast-set postcrete, or using metal post supports driven into the ground. Each approach suits different soil conditions and fence heights. Concrete is the most durable for tall fences but needs time to cure before the fence takes load. Post supports are quicker and allow the timber to stay drier at ground level, but they are not suitable for every soil type or every fence height. Ask which method the contractor proposes and why - a good answer will reference your specific soil and the height of the fence, not just a blanket preference.
One thing to watch: some contractors set posts straight into unlined holes in heavy clay soil. Clay holds water against the post base and accelerates rot. A layer of hardcore or gravel at the base of the hole, below the concrete, helps with drainage and extends post life significantly.
Some fencing companies quote jobs and then subcontract them to whoever is available. There is nothing illegal about this, but it means the person you assessed is not the person swinging the mallet. Ask directly: will your own team do this job, or do you use subcontractors? If subcontractors are used, ask how quality is checked on completion.
Before any repair starts, check your title deeds or the transfer document for your property. The 'T' marks on a boundary plan show which owner is responsible for maintaining each boundary. Repairing a fence you are not responsible for is not illegal, but it can create an implied acceptance of liability for future maintenance. If there is any doubt, have a brief conversation with your neighbour before work begins.
A verbal quote is not a quote - it is an approximation. Ask for the scope of work in writing, including the number and type of components being replaced, the timber specification, the method of post installation and the total price. This protects both parties and means there are no surprises when the invoice arrives.
Typical fence repair costs in the UK vary considerably by job. Replacing a single blown panel runs from around £80 to £150 for materials and labour. Replacing a rotten post in concrete typically costs £100 to £200 depending on post size and access. A full close-board run of, say, ten bays with new posts might run from £800 to £1,500 or more depending on height, timber specification and site conditions. These are honest working ranges - the right price for your job depends on what exactly needs doing.
Once you have a written scope and a price you are happy with, a good contractor will confirm a start date and advise you on anything that needs clearing away beforehand - plants growing against the fence line, stored items near the boundary, or access gates that need to be left unlocked. This is also a good moment to confirm how debris and old timber will be removed from site.
Haverhill Fencers carry out fence repairs across the area, including Haverhill, Linton, Stapleford, Sawston and the surrounding villages. If you are unsure whether we cover your location, get in touch and ask - we will tell you straight.
To talk through your repair and get a written breakdown of exactly what needs doing, call Haverhill Fencers. We will ask the right questions before we give you a figure, not after.
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