New Fence Installation in Duxford

What a new fence installation involves

A properly installed fence starts underground. Posts need to go in at the right depth - typically one third of their total length - and be set in concrete or a fast-setting post mix so they stay plumb over time. Skipping this step is the single biggest reason fences fail early. We install close-board, timber panel, picket and post-and-rail fencing, choosing the right system for the site and what you need the fence to do.

Before any post goes in, we check the line of the boundary, note any changes in ground level and look for underground obstacles such as tree roots, services or old post stumps. Getting this stage right means fewer problems later and a fence that sits properly rather than one that fights the ground it stands in.

Warning signs your existing fence needs replacing

Most homeowners wait until a fence actually falls down before calling anyone. By that point, replacing individual panels or posts is rarely the right answer - the damage is usually already widespread. These are the warning signs worth acting on earlier.

• Posts rocking at ground level. If you can push a post sideways by hand, the base has rotted or the concrete has cracked. A rocking post puts strain on every panel attached to it.
• Dark staining or soft timber at post bases. Ground-level rot is the most common cause of fence failure. Poke the wood with a screwdriver - if it goes in without much resistance, the timber has lost its strength.
• Panels bowing outward or sagging. This usually means the arris rails behind the boards have rotted or split. The boards themselves may look fine but the structure holding them is gone.
• Gaps opening between boards. Timber shrinks and moves with moisture. Some movement is normal but progressive gaps in close-board fencing often mean the rails are pulling away from rotten posts.
• Fence leaning along its length. A lean that runs across several panels points to a failing post rather than just wind damage to the top of the fence.
• Repeated panel replacements in the same run. If you have replaced the same section more than once in a few years, the posts and rails in that area are almost certainly at the end of their life too.

What causes fences to fail - and why

Ground moisture is the main culprit. Timber posts sitting in damp soil rot from the base up, starting where air and moisture meet - usually just below ground level, which is why the damage is invisible until the post is already weakened. Untreated or poorly treated timber speeds this up considerably. Pressure-treated posts with a preservative treatment applied in a vacuum chamber last significantly longer than timber that has simply been dip-treated or brush-coated on site.

Root pressure is a problem that is easy to underestimate. Tree and shrub roots grow toward moisture, and fence post holes - especially concrete-filled ones - hold water. Over several years a root can crack the concrete footing and tilt the post. If there are large trees near the boundary line, this is worth factoring in when choosing your post size and depth.

Wind loading matters too. A solid close-board fence acts like a sail. A fence that was installed without adequate bracing on corner posts or end posts will start to lean in the direction of the prevailing wind over time. This is not a design flaw in close-board fencing itself - it is a fixing detail that should be built in from the start, not retrofitted later.

Finally, post spurs installed without care can accelerate rot rather than prevent it. A steel spur bolted to a failing timber post is sometimes the right short-term fix, but if the post is already rotten at depth, a spur only delays the inevitable. Replacing the post properly is nearly always better value in the long run.

Choosing the right fence type for your property

Close-board fencing - vertical feather-edge boards fixed to horizontal arris rails - is the most popular choice for garden boundaries where privacy matters. It gives a solid, consistent face and typically runs from around £100 to £150 per metre supply and fitted, depending on height and ground conditions. Panel fencing costs less to buy but the panels are more vulnerable to wind damage and harder to repair cleanly once a section fails.

Picket fencing suits front gardens and low boundaries where you want definition without total enclosure. Post-and-rail is the practical choice for larger rural plots where you need to mark a boundary clearly without the cost of a solid run. Both options are available in treated softwood that takes paint or stain well if you want to match the fence to the house.

Height is regulated at the boundary. A fence directly on the boundary between two residential properties must not exceed 2 metres without planning permission - 1.8 metres is the standard height for most close-board and panel installations. If your property adjoins a highway, the limit drops to 1 metre. If you are unsure, it is worth checking before posts go in rather than after.

Boundary disputes and neighbour agreements

Before any new fence goes up, it is worth confirming which side of the boundary is yours to fence. Title deeds show a "T" mark against the boundary that party is responsible for maintaining, but not every homeowner has checked this. Fitting a fence on the wrong side, even by a few centimetres, can create a dispute that is disproportionately expensive and stressful to resolve. A simple conversation with your neighbour and a look at your deeds before work starts is time well spent.

By convention, the "good" side of a close-board fence - the face showing the boards rather than the posts and rails - faces outward, toward the neighbour or the street. There is no legal requirement for this but it is the accepted norm and most neighbours will expect it.

Serving Duxford and the surrounding villages

Rural sites with uneven ground, access constraints or long boundary runs benefit from a careful site check before work starts, so the route for materials and the line of the boundary are clear from the outset.

If your fence is showing any of the warning signs above, the sensible move is to get the boundary assessed before another winter. Call us to arrange a visit and we can tell you honestly whether repair is still an option or whether a full replacement is the better investment.