When a fence starts to fail in Linton, the question is always the same: patch it or start fresh - and getting that decision right saves you from paying twice.
A fence that is partly failing can tempt you into a cycle of small repairs that keep adding up without ever solving the underlying problem. On the other hand, replacing a fence that had years of life left is an unnecessary expense. The right answer depends on what has actually gone wrong and why.
At Haverhill Fencers, based in Haverhill and working across the area including Linton, we install new fences of all types - timber panel, close-board, picket and post-and-rail. But before any installation, we want to make sure a full replacement is genuinely the best use of your money.
Not every failing fence needs to come out entirely. Repair makes sense when the problem is isolated and the rest of the structure is sound.
A good rule of thumb: if more than about a third of the posts are failing, repair becomes false economy. You end up spending a significant sum now, only to be back replacing the rest within a few years.
Some situations make full replacement the better investment, even when the fence looks salvageable on the surface.
The most reliable test for a post is to push it firmly at the top while watching the base. Any significant movement at ground level means the post has lost its fixing. On close-board fencing, check the arris rails where they sit in the post slots - these often rot from the inside where moisture collects in the notch. Run your hand along rails and push into any soft spots.
On panel fencing, look at the bottom edge of each panel. Panels that sit directly on soil without a gravel board will rot from the bottom upward, and by the time the frame has gone the posts may still be fine. In this case, replacing panels and adding concrete gravel boards can give the existing posts another several years of useful life.
Where replacement is the right call, the process starts with removing the old fence - posts, panels, rails and any old concrete. Posts are dug out, not snapped off below ground. Leaving old post stumps in the ground creates obstacles for the new post holes and can harbour rot that spreads to new timber.
New posts are set at the correct depth - at least 600mm for a 1.8-metre fence, deeper in softer or sloping ground - and concreted in. We let posts cure before hanging rails and boards or fitting panels, because a post that has not fully set can shift and throw the whole run out of line.
We use pressure-treated timber throughout. Treatment grade matters: look for UC4 or equivalent for posts going into the ground. Untreated or dip-treated posts in ground contact simply do not last.
For supply and installation of new close-board fencing, expect to pay roughly £80 to £130 per metre depending on ground conditions, access and height. Standard panel fencing sits in a broadly similar range. Post-and-rail fencing for a more open boundary typically costs £30 to £60 per metre for a two- or three-rail run.
Repair costs vary too widely to generalise - a single post replacement might cost £150 to £250 including materials and labour, while replacing several posts along a run approaches or exceeds part-replacement cost quickly. Getting a site visit and a written breakdown is the only reliable way to compare the two options honestly.
Whether you are repairing or replacing, it is worth knowing what the options are.
Haverhill Fencers install fencing across Linton and the neighbouring villages, as well as Clare, Kedington, Steeple Bumpstead and the wider area around Haverhill. If you are not sure whether repair or replacement makes more sense for your fence, call us to arrange a visit and we will give you a straight answer before you commit to anything.
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