Haverhill Fencers install gates in Fulbourn from the initial site assessment through to final hardware checks - here's exactly what that process looks like.
A lot of gate problems come from shortcuts taken during installation that aren't visible until weeks or months later. Understanding each stage of the job helps you know what a proper installation looks like - and what questions to ask if anything seems rushed.
Before anything is ordered or dug, the opening needs to be measured properly. That means width at ground level and at the top - openings are not always parallel, particularly in older properties where ground levels may have changed or original posts have moved. Height is measured to match the fence line or the specific height you need for security or privacy.
We also look at what the gate will be hung from. If there are existing posts, we check whether they're still plumb, whether the concrete base is sound, and whether the timber or metal is in good enough condition to carry new hardware. A post that looks solid can be soft at the base where it meets the ground. Testing this properly at the assessment stage avoids discovering it after the gate is hung.
Ground level and surface type matter too. A gate that swings over uneven ground, or over a surface that will be changed later, needs to be positioned so it clears what's actually going to be there. A gate hung to the right height over gravel that later gets topped up will drag. Discussing what's planned for the surrounding area at this stage prevents that.
Once the opening is accurately measured, we confirm the gate specification - material, design, dimensions and hardware. Non-standard openings may need to be made to measure, which adds lead time. It's worth knowing this before you set a deadline for when the gate needs to be in place.
Hardware selection happens at this stage too. Hinges are chosen for the weight of the gate, not just the design of it. A close-boarded timber gate looks similar to a simple ledge-and-brace gate, but it can weigh significantly more. Getting this wrong at the specification stage is the most common reason gates drop within the first year.
If new posts are needed, this is the most critical stage of the entire installation. Posts are set in concrete, and the depth depends on the gate's height and weight. A general working guide is that one third of the post length should be below ground. For a 1.8-metre gate, that means a post of at least 2.4 metres, with roughly 800mm in concrete.
The posts need to be set plumb in both directions - not just upright when viewed from the front, but also when viewed from the side. A post that's plumb front-to-back but leaning forward or backward will cause the gate to swing open or closed under its own weight.
The concrete must be allowed to cure properly before the gate is hung. Putting a heavy gate on posts too early - even if the concrete feels firm - risks the post shifting under load before the concrete has reached full strength. A minimum curing period of 24-48 hours is standard, and longer in cold conditions when concrete sets more slowly.
With posts set and cured, the gate is positioned and the hinges are marked and fixed. For timber posts, hinges are bolted through where possible rather than screwed, particularly for heavier gates. Bolted fixings distribute the load across the post rather than relying solely on the screw thread's grip in the wood.
The gate is hung and then checked for level and for swing. It should open and close with consistent resistance throughout the arc - if it gets heavier toward the open position or tends to swing back, the hinge positioning needs adjustment before the hardware is finalised.
For a pair of driveway gates, both leaves need to be checked against each other. They should meet cleanly in the middle, at the same height, with the latch engaging without forcing. Getting this right with two gates rather than one requires more patience and checking, but it makes a significant difference to how the finished job looks and functions.
The latch is fitted once the gate is confirmed to hang correctly. The strike plate or keep is positioned and fixed so the latch engages with light pressure - not a push and a lift. If you're having a cane bolt or drop bolt fitted to a double gate, the receiver in the ground needs to be positioned while the gates are hanging true, not marked up beforehand without the gate in place.
Additional hardware - padlock staples, security bolts, an inside-only handle for a side gate - is fitted at this stage and checked for function before the job is considered done.
The job isn't finished when the gate swings. Excess concrete at the base of the posts should be cut back below ground level so it doesn't cause water to pool at the post base. Any disturbed ground around the posts is made good. Surplus materials and any packaging are cleared from the site.
Before we leave, we walk through the gate's operation with you - showing how the latch and any bolts work, and pointing out anything you should keep an eye on or maintain. For timber gates, that means telling you when treatment should first be applied. For metal gates, it means pointing out the areas - particularly welds and cut edges - where the coating should be checked periodically.
A close-boarded timber side gate installed at 1.8 metres with an internal latch and a base bolt is a genuine security measure. It removes visibility into the rear garden and denies easy access. If this is the purpose, the gate should be fitted with no external handle and no letter-box style gaps, and the latch should only be operable from inside. Mention this when we discuss the job and we'll spec the hardware accordingly.
We install timber and metal gates in Fulbourn, working from our base in Haverhill. If you have an opening measured and a material in mind, or if you'd like us to assess what's there first, call us to arrange a visit and talk through the job properly.
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