Metal Fencing in Fulbourn - How the Job Gets Done

Why Process Matters on a Metal Fencing Job

A metal fence is only as good as the installation behind it. The panels, the posts, and the finish can all be first rate, but if the groundwork is rushed or the posts are not set true, problems will follow. Knowing what a thorough installation involves means you can ask the right questions and recognise a job being done properly.

Haverhill Fencers install steel and aluminium fencing for homeowners in Fulbourn and the wider area. Here is what we actually do, from the first look at the site through to cleaning up afterwards.

Step 1: The Site Assessment

Before any materials are ordered, the site needs to be properly assessed. This is not just measuring the run length - it involves checking ground conditions, identifying underground services, understanding changes in level, and agreeing the exact line of the boundary.

Ground conditions affect post type and depth. Clay-heavy soil that expands and contracts with moisture change can heave shallow posts over time. Made-up ground (garden fill, rubble, old hardcore) may need longer posts set in concrete that reaches undisturbed soil. Near boundaries with a neighbour, knowing whose side the fence sits on avoids disputes later - a boundary agreement in writing is worth having before the first post goes in.

Underground services are a genuine hazard. Gas, water, drainage, and electric cables all run at shallow depths in residential gardens. Before any mechanical digging or post driving, we check with the homeowner about known services and use the available checking tools for the site. Hitting a service line is dangerous and expensive - this step is not optional.

Level changes along the run determine whether panels are raked (angled to follow the slope), stepped (horizontal panels at descending heights), or a combination. This decision affects appearance and material quantities and needs to be made before ordering.

Step 2: Planning the Layout and Ordering Materials

Once measurements are confirmed and the ground is understood, the run is planned panel by panel. Post spacing on steel and aluminium panel fencing is usually 2.4 m - 3 m between centres depending on the panel size and wind loading requirement. Tighter spacing is specified on exposed runs or where panel height increases.

Gate openings need to be agreed at this stage - the position of the opening, the clear width required (vehicle width plus comfortable margin if it is a drive gate), and whether the gate is single or double leaf. Gate post sizing is specified separately from line posts because of the additional load.

Materials are then ordered to match the agreed plan. Ordering too short means a return visit for more materials; over-ordering wastes money on panels that cannot easily be returned. A careful take-off at this stage pays for itself.

Step 3: Clearing the Line

Any existing fencing, vegetation, or obstructions along the fence line are removed before new posts go in. On residential sites this often means lifting old timber fence panels, pulling existing posts, and clearing back planting that has grown into the boundary.

Old concrete around removed posts is excavated fully - leaving it in place creates an irregular base that can prevent new posts from sitting at the correct depth and alignment. This is a step that some installers skip to save time, and it shows in how long the new fence holds its line.

Step 4: Setting the Posts

Post setting is the most critical stage of a metal fencing installation. Posts are positioned using a string line or laser level to ensure they run true. Each post is checked for plumb in two directions before the concrete is poured or the post is backfilled.

Concrete mix for post setting is typically a reasonably stiff mix to avoid slump in the hole. The concrete is tamped around the post to remove air pockets. The post top is capped or sealed where required to prevent water ingress into hollow sections - a small detail that prevents internal corrosion from moisture trapped inside the post.

Standard residential post depths for fencing up to 1.8 m high are typically 450 - 600 mm into the ground with a concrete collar. Taller fencing, gate posts, and corner posts all require greater depth and often a larger volume of concrete. Posts set too shallow is one of the main causes of leaning fencing after the first wet winter.

Concrete needs time to cure before panels are hung or fixed. In normal weather this means leaving posts for at least 24 - 48 hours. Fitting panels too early puts stress on fresh concrete that has not yet reached working strength.

Step 5: Fixing the Panels and Rails

Once posts are set and cured, panels or rails are fixed into position. On welded mesh panel systems, panels clip or bolt to post-mounted brackets. On palisade and railing systems, rails run horizontally between posts and the vertical pales or pickets are fixed to the rails.

Fixing hardware matters. Stainless steel or galvanised fixings do not corrode; uncoated mild steel bolts and screws will rust and stain the fence surface within a few seasons. Dissimilar metals in direct contact - an ungalvanised steel bolt in an aluminium post, for example - can cause localised galvanic corrosion that undermines both the fixing and the surrounding metal.

Alignment is checked as each panel is fixed. A panel that is not vertical or sits slightly proud of its neighbours should be corrected at this stage, not after the whole run is complete.

Step 6: Fitting Gates

Gates are hung after the panels are fixed, so the overall fence line and gate opening dimensions can be confirmed before the gate goes on. Hinges are set to allow the gate to swing clear without dragging, and the latch or lock is adjusted so it closes cleanly under its own weight.

Heavy metal gates - particularly double-leaf driveway gates in steel - need careful hinge placement and post reinforcement. A gate that is hung too high or on hinges spaced too close together will drop over time. Three hinges rather than two on any gate over 1.5 m tall is standard practice for this reason.

Step 7: Checking and Cleaning Up

Before leaving site, the full run is walked and checked - post alignment, panel fixings, gate operation, any touch-up needed on the coating where drilling or cutting has left bare metal. Any bare cut ends on steel panels or posts should be treated with a zinc-rich primer before the job is signed off; bare steel left exposed will begin to rust within weeks in typical weather.

Concrete and soil spoil from post holes is cleared from the site. Arisings from any removed fencing are either taken away or stacked where the customer has agreed. A clean site at the end is not a nicety - it means the customer can see clearly what has been done and spot anything that needs attention before the installer leaves.

What to Ask Before Booking

• Will posts be set in concrete, and to what depth?
• Are post tops capped or sealed?
• Are all fixings stainless or galvanised?
• Will bare cut ends be primed before completion?
• How long after post-setting before panels are fixed?

We Cover Fulbourn and the Surrounding Area

Haverhill Fencers work from our base in Haverhill across the wider area, including Fulbourn and neighbouring villages. Call us to arrange a site assessment and talk through what the job involves for your particular property and boundary.