New Fence Installation in Newmarket - What Happens From First Look to Finished Job

Step 1 - The Site Visit and Boundary Check

Every fence installation starts with someone coming to look at the boundary in person. A proper site visit is not just about measuring up; it is about understanding the ground conditions, noting any level changes, checking what is already there and having a conversation about what you actually want the fence to do.

At this stage we check where the boundary sits, whether there is an existing fence to remove, what the ground is like beneath the surface and whether there are any obstacles - tree roots, buried rubble, concrete from old posts, services running underground. All of these affect how the job is priced and planned.

A boundary question that often comes up at this point: which side of the fence should the posts and rails face? In most residential installations the posts and rails face into your property, with the smooth or finished face pointing outward to the neighbour or the street. This is not a legal requirement in most cases, but it is the accepted convention and worth discussing before the work starts.

Step 2 - Choosing the Right Style and Material for the Site

Once we have seen the ground and understood what you need, we can give a specific recommendation on style and material. What works on a level rear garden is not necessarily the best choice for a sloping front boundary or a longer exposed run.

For most Newmarket homeowners wanting a solid rear garden boundary, the options are typically timber panel fencing or close-board (feather-edge) fencing. Close-board handles sloping ground better because each bay can be stepped or raked to follow the contour. Panel fencing suits level ground and tends to be slightly quicker to install. We cover both styles, along with picket fencing and post-and-rail for different situations.

At this point we also discuss post material - treated softwood or concrete - and whether concrete gravel boards are worth specifying for the base. These are practical decisions that affect how long the fence lasts, not just aesthetic ones.

Step 3 - Marking Out and Removing the Old Fence

Before any digging starts, the line of the new fence is marked out. On a straight boundary this is straightforward. On a boundary with corners, curves or sections that step, taking care at this stage prevents misalignment further along the run.

If there is an existing fence to come out, this happens before the new posts go in. Old posts that were concreted in require more effort to remove than those set in compacted soil alone. Pulling a concreted post and its root ball out cleanly without disturbing the surrounding ground more than necessary takes the right equipment. If old posts are simply cut off at ground level rather than pulled out, they will rot in place and the new post hole may need to go slightly off the old position.

Old fencing material, concrete and soil from the post holes are loaded out and disposed of properly. This is part of the job, not an afterthought.

Step 4 - Digging the Post Holes

Post holes are the foundation of the whole fence. Get them wrong and nothing above them will stay straight or stable for long. For a standard 1.8-metre close-board or panel fence, posts need to go 600mm into the ground as a minimum, and on softer or wetter ground 750mm is safer. The hole diameter needs to be wide enough to pack concrete properly around the post - typically 200 to 250mm.

On hard or stony ground, a mechanical post-hole borer speeds this up considerably compared to hand digging. On ground where services may be present - gas, water, electricity or telecoms - it is the homeowner's responsibility to check for buried services before digging begins. Call Before You Dig (the free service run by LSBUD) allows you to check for mapped services online before any excavation work starts.

Post spacing for panel fencing is determined by the panel width, typically 1.83 metres. For close-board, bay widths can be adjusted slightly to suit the run length and minimise waste.

Step 5 - Setting the Posts in Concrete

Posts go into the holes and are checked for vertical alignment in two directions using a spirit level. This matters because a post that is slightly off vertical looks worse the taller the fence is, and a leaning post puts uneven stress on the rails and boards attached to it.

Concrete is mixed and packed around each post. The top of the concrete is sloped away from the post on all sides so that rainwater sheds away from the base of the timber rather than pooling against it. This is a small detail that makes a meaningful difference to how long the post lasts.

Posts must be left to cure before the panels or boards go on. Concrete takes at least 24 hours to achieve enough strength to resist the lateral force of fixing panels, and in cold weather it takes longer. Rushing this step is a common cause of posts moving out of alignment.

Step 6 - Fixing Rails, Gravel Boards and Panels or Boards

Once the posts are set and cured, the horizontal elements go on. For close-board fencing this means fixing arris rails between the posts, usually two or three rails per bay depending on fence height. The gravel board goes in at the base, either timber or concrete, sitting on the ground between the posts so the fence boards do not touch the soil directly.

For panel fencing, the panels slot or fix between the posts at the correct height above the gravel board, then are secured with fixings through the post. Panel fencing is quicker to fit than close-board because the boards are pre-assembled.

Close-board fencing involves fixing each feather-edge board individually, overlapping its neighbour by around 25mm, working from one end of the bay to the other and checking alignment regularly. It takes more time but the result is a fence that can be repaired one board at a time and that handles movement in the ground better than a rigid panel.

Step 7 - Post Caps and Finishing Details

Post caps go on every exposed post top. This is not decorative only - a capped post sheds water off the end grain, which is where moisture enters most easily. Uncapped posts collect water in the hollow at the top and rot from the inside down. Acorn, ball and flat cap styles are all available.

Capping rails along the top of close-board fencing protect the top edges of the feather-edge boards and give the fence a cleaner finished line. Cut ends of treated timber are sealed with end-grain preservative.

Step 8 - Clean-Up and Checking the Work

Before we leave a job, the site is cleared of off-cuts, old concrete rubble, packaging and any displaced soil. The fence line is checked from end to end for consistent post spacing, level panels and tight board alignment. Any fixings that have worked loose during handling are tightened.

You should walk the length of the fence yourself before signing off. Check that posts are plumb, that panels sit level, that gravel boards are in contact with the ground along their length, and that no boards have split during fixing. These are the things to look for on any fence installation, regardless of who carries it out.

Typical Costs for New Fence Installation Near Newmarket

Panel fencing in pressure-treated softwood typically runs from £80 to £120 per metre installed. Close-board fencing from around £100 to £150 per metre. Removing and disposing of an existing fence adds roughly £10 to £20 per metre on top. These are supply-and-fit figures including posts, concrete, gravel boards and fixings.

To arrange a site visit in Newmarket or the surrounding area, call us to fix a time and we will come and look at the boundary with you.